2026/6 - Join me on my trip to Middelburg, attractive capitol of Zeeland

 There. In your face!

We are in the bleakest part of Dutch Delta winter right now, and it is cold, and mostly grey, and sometimes wet as well.

But occasionally we are lucky, and the sun shows herself. I was extremely lucky with the weekend my daughter and I took the train to Middelburg, as it was cold but sunny.

In one of the many charming alleyways we stumbled across this magnificent Camelia.

Middelburg

Zeeland is one of our South-Western provinces, and is made up by a collection of islands. They used to be at the mercy of the sea,  but no longer, as our engineers cleverly built the Deltawerken. So now there are barriers to keep the sea out, and dams to connect the islands. Eventhough I live on such an island myself (but in Zuid-Holland), Zeeland feels distinctly 'different'! And it IS old! Viking king Harald the Young is said to have ruled here between 841 and 864.

It was quite a weird experience; my hometown Brielle is just as old, so the Middelburg buildings feel very familiar, but they are larger, grander and more numerous. Above is the Vismarkt (fish market), our view from the b&b. A lovely square, very quiet. Until we were shouted awake no less than 5 times by drunken louts in the middle of the night...some people have no manners!

The gothic town hall (1458) is overwhelming. All turrets and statues and gargoyles, very beautiful.

Compared to this, my Brielle town hall is like a shed...But then Middelburg was extremely wealthy during the 15th and 16th century, whilst Brielle fell on hard times after its brief fame of being the first town to be liberated from the Spanish in the 80 year war in 1572.

Again the town hall on the left, and the Abdijchurch (called Lange Jan) on the right. We had a wonderful meal in De Herberg, which serves a good selection of vegan food, as well as meat and fish.

Such grandeur! 

The old centre of the town is a collection of squares, mostly connected by gates. There is a huge Norbertine Abbey, dating from 1127, and it has numerous winding alleys.

It also has many churches! The Reformation meant they all converted to Protestantism in 1574, as did this one, but the outside still felt pre-reformation.

Middelburg made its wealth from VOC and WIC shipping. And that means not only spices, and luxury chinaware, but slavery as well. Funnily enough Amsterdam has 'the bad name' where slavery is concerned, but Middelburg was just as notorious.

This used to be where the ships docked, and the huge houses along what used to be quays (Prins Hendrikdok) still project wealth. When you get a wobble from the crazy business of Amsterdam, go to Middelburg! The houses are just as imposing, I promise.

The rich 'reders' (shipowners) all proudly named their houses, this one is called De Witte Swaen (the white swan). 

But, as ever, richess 'don't impress me much', to quote Shania Twain, and the ordinary houses charm me much more.

Higgeldy piggeldy...lovely! The Kuiperspoort.

It appears to be a completely deserted town, but it was minus one... All people had hidden indoors.

One of the many gates. And no cars allowed...bliss. The typical cellar doors on the left are still in situ all over the town centre.

The square of the Abbey. 

Can you spot that Camelia?

And here it is...glorious! My daughter (not familiar with camelias) was amazed that it bloomed in late January. But it stood in exactly the right spot! Protected from the wind by tall walls, and in sunshine.

I'll leave you with a typically Dutch café, again empty, as it was early on Sunday morning and all those louts were still sleeping off their hangovers I guess...Can you spot those ancient white tiles on the back wall? We call them 'witjes' and they are very old. This building must stem from the  late 14th century, and escaped the fires that swept the centre a couple of times. And those heavy beams on the right! Impressive.

A Dutch breakfast. The boiled eggs were still boiling...

Well. Hopefully you have enjoyed joining me on my weekend trip. I will revert to Hunky Dory blogs soon, so watch this space. My manuscript is at the printer's, a.s.a. I have news, I'll let you know. In the meantime you can have a look at Renée Grashoff Schrijft

Do follow this blog when you like it, won't you? And have a good week, wherever you are.

Renée Grashoff